Michelle Fleckner
16 Feb
16Feb

When homeowners discover mold, one of the first solutions they hear about is antimicrobial fogging. It sounds comprehensive. It sounds high-tech. It sounds like it should solve the problem.

But here’s the truth: antimicrobial fogging alone is not mold remediation.

If the source of the mold isn’t identified and corrected, fogging can become an expensive temporary fix — and in some cases, a complete waste of money.

Let’s break down why.

Mold Is a Moisture Problem First

Mold does not appear randomly. It grows where moisture exists.

Common sources include:

  • Crawl spaces with elevated humidity
  • Long-term ground moisture intrusion
  • Leaking pipes under sinks
  • Hidden plumbing leaks inside walls
  • Poor ventilation
  • Condensation cycles over years

If mold is present, especially in a crawl space, the source must be addressed first — and correctly.

If you fog inside the home without stabilizing the crawl space or correcting the moisture intrusion, mold can and will return.

Why the Crawl Space Matters So Much

In many homes, the crawl space is the origin of the problem.

Over years, humidity levels can rise and fall in cycles. That repeated moisture exposure creates ideal conditions for mold growth on:

  • Subflooring
  • Floor joists
  • Girders
  • Insulation

If there has been prolonged humidity or water intrusion, the crawl space must be re-established to a stable, controlled environment before anything else is done inside the home.

That may include:

  • Removing moisture sources
  • Correcting drainage or vapor barriers
  • Addressing structural water intrusion
  • Installing proper environmental controls

If this step is skipped, any interior remediation may fail.

Insulation Must Be Removed If Mold Is Present

If mold is present in the crawl space and insulation is installed, all insulation must be removed. Period.

Why?

Insulation acts like a sponge for spores. Even if mold appears “dead,” spores trapped inside insulation can:

  • Repopulate
  • Release particles back into the air
  • Recontaminate the structure

Encapsulation without removing contaminated insulation is not a complete solution.


When Fogging Is Not Enough for Heavy Mold Growth

In extreme conditions where mold is layered on subfloor joists, antimicrobial fogging alone is typically ineffective.

Fogging may kill the mold — but it does not remove it.

Dead mold:

  • Still remains on the wood
  • Still affects air quality
  • Still causes visual and structural concerns

To physically remove mold from joists, homeowners generally have two primary options:

Soda Blasting

A high-pressure application (around 150 PSI) of concentrated baking soda with enzymes is used to:

  • Strip mold off wood surfaces
  • Restore the wood’s appearance
  • Prepare the surface for treatment

This is typically followed by:

  • Antimicrobial application
  • Wood sealant (when appropriate)

Professional Mold Removal Sprays

Certain professional-grade mold removal products:

  • Kill mold
  • Break down the root structure
  • Cause mold to detach from the wood without aggressive wiping

Both methods are effective when performed properly. In most cases, insulation removal accompanies both approaches.

What You Should Never Do

Never paint over mold with a moisture-sealing paint.

This traps mold inside the wood fibers. Once sealed in, it becomes extremely difficult — sometimes impossible — to properly remove later.

Painting over mold is not remediation. It is concealment.

Inside the Home: Removal Comes Before Fogging

If mold originates inside the home — such as from:

  • A leaking kitchen pipe
  • A bathroom plumbing failure
  • Water damage inside walls

Then affected materials must be removed.

This can include:

  • Cutting out contaminated drywall
  • Removing compromised wood
  • Removing carpet if testing confirms contamination

Carpet, especially, can hold spores within its fibers and padding. In many confirmed cases, removal is the safest option.

Only after contaminated materials are removed should antimicrobial fogging be considered.

The Role of HEPA Air Scrubbers and HEPA Vacuums

During remediation, proper containment and air filtration are critical.

Professional remediation should include:

  • HEPA air scrubbers during active treatment
  • Industrial HEPA vacuums for contaminated dust and debris
  • Controlled airflow management

These tools actively remove airborne spores while remediation is underway.

Fogging without air scrubbing is incomplete.


Without Moisture Control, Mold Comes Back

If humidity and moisture are not properly controlled, mold can return within 24–48 hours after treatment.
Mold spores are always present in the air. When humidity rises above about 60% or materials remain damp, those spores can quickly reactivate — even after antimicrobial fogging or surface treatment.
Killing mold is not enough.If the moisture source remains, the mold will return.
Control the moisture. Control the mold.

When Is Antimicrobial Fogging Appropriate?

Fogging can be beneficial:

  • After source correction
  • After contaminated materials are removed
  • After crawl space stabilization
  • As a final step in remediation

Used correctly, it is a finishing measure — not the primary solution.

The Bottom Line

Antimicrobial fogging can be expensive.

Without addressing:

  • Moisture intrusion
  • Crawl space instability
  • Contaminated insulation
  • Structural mold growth
  • Material removal

…it can become a temporary bandage over a systemic issue.

Mold remediation is not about killing spores.It is about eliminating the environment that allows them to thrive.

If you have questions about mold remediation, crawl space stabilization, or indoor air quality solutions, I’m happy to help.

Thank you for reading.

Flicker Indoor Air Solutions🌐 www.flickermoldradon.com🌐 michelle@moldradontesting.com

I look forward to helping you create a clean, stable, and healthy home environment.


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